If you come to Vienna I will take you

Friedhof der Namenlosen and my daughter Molly

It’s a public holiday today for All Saints Day – as it is in many countries – and as christians Cate and I are taking a well deserved day off. Well I am – Cate is working – and is not happy about it. Some people just never give her a break.

When I say we are christian – we have a christian view of the world in that we generally wish people no harm (there are a few exceptions), are fond of animals (mainly cats – although Cate always has an apple in her bag in case she sees a horse) and always recycle our bottles.

Now we don’t worship any particular deities but we don’t think that should deny us the benefit of days off - because we have so many other redeeming features. Besides – we believe in so many other things – that should count for something. And we are really good people.

On this particular day the Viennese swarm all over the cemeteries with flowers and candles. A particularly popular spot is the Friedhof der Namenlosen  which is a tiny and very obscure cemetery hidden away on the outskirts of Vienna. I have been there many times.

It is not more than about 100 square metres and contains only about (I am guessing – 100 graves) most of which – as the name of the cemetery implies – are of persons unknown. It is a must see if you come to Vienna – but it is not easy to get to. But I will take you.

 

And here are the photos of the Delft pottery and German crystal. The Delft jar is 27cm tall and the largest candlestick is 31cm tall.

He is probably a very good chef

Bruges

Our favourite Friday night restaurant is an Italian place in the centre of Vienna and we go there every week when we are at home.

Mario is the host – Tony is the head waiter – it is usually fairly quiet on Friday nights as Mario does a lot of his business with large tourist groups who come during the week.

The food is excellent and the prices are – by Viennese standards – very good value indeed. In terms of value for money it is probably the best restaurant in Vienna 1010.

So it is usually a very quiet night – we never book – we just wander in there and get the very best attention from Mario and Tony.

On Friday night we went with Gwenyth and it was apparent when we arrived that it was not a normal Friday night.

The restaurant was packed and Mario looked unusually tense and harassed. He ushered us to the head table - which was the only free table - marked as reserved - and set for five - and there we sat – unattended – for about 10 minutes while Mario and Tony scampered around the packed restaurant.

Finally we were attended to and Mario said that he had only two reservations for the night – the rest of the seething horde were just walk ins.

Well we finally – and it was a struggle - ordered mineral water and aperitifs - and from there on it was a complete gold-plated, nut-encrusted, cinnamon dusted goat fuck.

We saw from the menu – it had a special insert - that there was a new Chef – Pietro. There was a picture of Pietro on the colour insert – and we saw a lot of him that evening – in fact he was rarely out of our sight.

Pietro spent more time in the restaurant than he did in the kitchen. He seemed to spend a lot of time arguing with Mario.

Mario was very patient and always took him by the elbow or arm - and steered him back to the kitchen. Pietro spent a lot of time shaking his middle finger at Mario. I don’t know what this meant – other than anguish for Mario.

There was also a new waiter – we did not learn his name. He was not very good and Mario spent his spare time – when he was not with Pietro – with the new waiter – either arguing or shouting.

Every couple of minutes Pietro came out of the kitchen and talked to the patrons. Occasionally he came down to the bar and had animated discussions with Mario.

We finally received our entrees and then waited – and waited. After about an hour – on one of his many forays into the restaurant Pietro visited us – banged on our table and asked ‘va bene?’

I answered yes it was indeed going sensationally well and could be improved only by us having our dinner – but I said this to his back as he was already lurching back to his kitchen - stopping only at the bar long enough to down a glass of white wine.

Mario said that Pietro was trying out some new wines to go with his new dishes. If only he would try one of his new dishes on us.

Then the new waiter arrived again – took our bread away and asked us if we wanted Dolce. We said we would like our main course first - and he went off to talk to Mario.

Shortly after this a hot and sweaty Mario visited us – with more bread - and said that our dinner was on its way. He said this with a note of hope in his voice and a glance towards the kitchen.

He paused to pour himself two glasses of wine from the bottle of wine at the table next to ours and downed each of these in one gulp. The wine was behind the table so the patrons did not see their bottle depleted. He was obviously thirsty and in great need.  

Shortly after this the new waiter dropped a full tray of wine glasses that he was attempting to insert into the dishwasher and this occupied Mario for some time - during which our dinner arrived – to the sound of broken glass being collected.

My dinner was hot and delicious. Cate and Gwenyth’s dinners were stone cold – but also delicious.  

Mario did not charge us for these. Pietro is probably a good chef. I hope it is quieter next week - and that Pietro has finished testing the wines. 

Sissi likes Gouda

Cycling through Holland - Badger at the rear in red

At the moment Sissi’s favourite cheese is Grana Padano. She just loves it and as soon as I start slicing it for my world famous Rucola and Grana Padano salad she goes berserk.

Last night I tried her on Gouda and she loves the aged one which Gwenyth bought. It will be interesting to she if she likes the flavoured ones that Cate and I acquired – particularly the nettle one.

If so this will be a big help as I am finding the mountain of cheese in the kitchen a bit disturbing and may have to hide some in the basement until we can all – Sissi included – make some progress.

One day when we were in Amsterdam we visited Delft by train and naturally we went to the Delft shop to look at the pottery.

We had intended to buy a small piece as a memento but in fact fell in love with a very old, large jar that was made in 1889 - and on which the dog had been broken off the lid - and been stuck back on. You can hardly notice it unless you actually look at the lid.

It was not really very expensive – and will never be worth very much because it has been repaired – but we love the idea that it has already been around for so long and we know when it was made and who painted it. (P.L. Dijkman)

So we bought it and have put it in what we hope will be a Sissi-proof part of the house – but she is a very resourceful cat so who knows.

The Schanigarten vanished while we were away – and this for us always signals the start of winter. Daylight savings ends on Sunday so it is firewood time – or what passes for firewood in this household – and this year I am not risking my ribs so Jules my firewood man is going to have to do all the work himself.

The time before last when we were away Mrs. Moneypenny was also away so we had to rely on Jules to look after the cats.

Well he succeeded to the extent that they did not die - but the apartment was a shambles – he changed the wiring on the TV and stereo and changed all the settings on the air conditioning. There was cat food everywhere and the litter tray had not been emptied properly.

My friend Yum Cha – who also called in when we were away – said that there was evidence that young women (shriek!) were being entertained here. Heavens!

So – unsurprisingly – Jules was more interested in shagging his girlfriend in a penthouse apartment than feeding the cats – so Mrs. Moneypenny gave him a good talking to - and we expect better results in the future. There is  no reason he cannot do both – with diligence the cats only take about half an hour a day.

But he is going to have to move a lot of faux-wood to get back into my good books.